Friday, January 18, 2013

Aotearoa Arrival

There are worse spots to be than New Zealand on a Friday night in the middle of the summer. It's not hot here, at least not in Auckland (though there's a hole in the ozone right above us, so sunscreen is a must – read: I will have a sunburn within a week), but it's more than comfortable for mid-January, walking around in shorts and making plans for going to the beach.

I made it to Fiji around 5:00 in the morning yesterday, when everything was still dark. Even so, it was warm – when I stepped off the plane, it felt like I walked into a greenhouse full of potatoes, the air was that moist and earthy smelling. Right away, there were two choices: a lineup for those people making a connecting flight, and one for those leaving the airport.

I went right, with those leaving the airport, for three reasons. The other line was long and congested; I had a four-hour layover, and so it would be nice to step outside, see the sunrise, and kill an hour or so; and I really wanted a Fiji stamp in my passport, let's be real.

By the time my Air Pacific flight to New Zealand was ready to board, the world around me had burst to life, and as soon as I took my seat, the Kiwi next to me shook my hand, introduced me to his wife, and pointed out where they stayed in Fiji as we took off. By the time we arrived in Auckland, a few hours later, he gave me his phone number and told me that he was going to be out of town for a while, but here's when he'd be available. Meanwhile, a huge granite statue of a dwarf (I guess that's ironic) greeted passengers as they arrived in New Zealand. I don't know where I am, but I'm pretty sure I'm in the right spot.

Customs was effortless, and SWAP arranged transportation to the Base Auckland Hostel by way of the Airport Express. The drive in was not unlike that initial drive through the English countryside almost a year and a half ago, and not just because we were driving on the left and through roundabouts; everything was brand new and had a sense of freshness, familiar and yet totally new. Before long, we pulled over onto the busy sidewalk of Queen Street, and with just a backpack near bursting, I was off again.

Base is something I've never heard tell of before now – it's a hostel chain. There are a bunch of them throughout New Zealand and Australia, and this one at least has a real hotel feel to it. For one thing, my four person room (that I shared with three girls, further confirming my theory that I must have run several orphanages in my previous life) is on the tenth floor. There's also a backpackers bar in the same building, not to mention a huge lounge and reception area, multiple TV rooms, and a pretty big kitchen. It's not the starlight room at the Ritz or anything, but it's a big step up from some of the dingier places I've laid my head down in the past.

So, I dropped my things off, fully convinced that I had beat jet lag because I slept nearly straight through on my flight to Fiji, I hit the streets of Auckland just as the rain started. Fortunately, the heavens only opened up for a few minutes, and the sun came out in practically the same breath. I caught my first real glimpse of the Pacific Ocean (turns out it is big and blue, like the Atlantic) down along the waterfront area of Waitemata Harbour (City of Sails is an apt nickname), and saw huge, contorted trees that came straight out of (don't say Lord of the Rings, don't say Lord of the Rings) a fairytale in Albert Park. From either vantage point, it's never hard to spot the Sky Tower, an observation and telecommunications spike that looks more than a bit like the CN Tower in Toronto, and has the distinction of being the tallest free standing building in the Southern Hemisphere. Oh, and because this is New Zealand, obviously you can bungee jump off of it.




There are a lot of things going on in this city, New Zealand's biggest (though not its capital), but it's still just a city. I didn't come here to go to malls or see crowds, and so it's no wonder that everyone who has been to New Zealand says to spend the time that you need here, but to get out of Auckland as soon as you can. That might be a bit harsh, but I don't think I'm going to spend too much time here just the same.

Alright then . . . where am I going to spend my time?

That's the tricky part, that's the thing that's been on my mind in the months leading up to this trip, but now more than ever. I had a lot of things that I wanted to do, a lot of places to see, but now is the time to start making logistical sense, and to start figuring out how I'm going to get around, what kind of job I'm going to look for, how long I want to stay in any one place, and about a hundred other little things like that. Just from looking over the pamphlets in our hostel over breakfast, I could see that this is a country for travelling backpackers, and because there's a huge demand, there are a huge number of competing options. And as great as that is, it's pretty overwhelming too, especially when you factor in all of the new culture shocks being thrown at me (it's not as bad as if I ended up in India somewhere, but words mean different things, the grocery stores have weird and unusual things in their aisles, and I can't jaywalk anymore because a car driving on the left will probably sneak up and squash me), and the fact that I was, in fact, still pretty jet lagged.

I said I came to New Zealand through SWAP, which is a Canadian group with connections in a heap of countries worldwide. The partner organization here in New Zealand is IEP, and they're the ones running the jobbanks, resource centre, helping with bank accounts and tax information, and giving about a dozen of us a welcome session. We had that orientation later this morning, and that only heightened that overwhelming feeling of being in over my head. So many websites aimed at finding jobs, and even then so many different kinds of jobs, each offering a very different kind of experience. I wanted to pick fruit for a while, and that was about all I planned – I don't think I want to look for any position longer than a month, but then do I really want to live out of a backpack for 7 months, and never be able to do a decent grocery trip because I'm constantly in motion? There's good and bad to each option, and there are dozens and dozens of options.

You have to crawl before you run though, so before I even let myself get stressed about mapping where I'm going to be in a week, I thought about today. The four of us from the hostel, all in the program, went to the post office to submit our forms for an IRD tax number, so that we can legally work in New Zealand. They were expecting the IEP crowd there, and told us to come back in half an hour – by then, they had processed our forms, and we walked away with a bank account at Kiwibank as well. It was almost too easy, and about 45 minutes later I had a Samsung phone that I got on sale at the Warehouse, a retail chain here Down Under. That was pretty simple too, though I haven't been able to get it to send a text home yet.

For supper, myself and Joyce, a gal from the Netherlands who's on the same soul-searching no-plan adventure as me, went to New World (move over Tesco, I have a new foreign grocery store) to pick up something. We had good intentions – let's make this as Kiwi as we can, buying lamb chops and some kumara hash browns (that's a New Zealand sweet potato). When we got back to the kitchen, we found that most of the pans were missing handles, there was no oil, the hash browns went from being patties to being minced flakes of something, and I caught a dishcloth on fire. In spite of all of those things, it ended up being pretty good.


And now, here it is, New Zealand on a Friday night. Last night I was jet lagged, and maybe I still am a bit, but I'm also ready to forget about making big plans and how I'm going to fit everything in, and just worry about the here and now. Right now, my big concern is that this is a working vacation, and the second word is just as important as the first. I think it's time to visit that hostel bar I talked about.

Cheers,
rb

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